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Limoges treated us to hailstorms and buckets of rain. We espied two pilgrims in its dim interior, one a radiant Dutchman walking back from Compostela with a fifty-pound pack. In fact, all the handful of foot-pilgrims we met before Ostabat were Dutch or Belgian men with enormous packs; we met no female walkers, which seemed odd. We stayed again at an FJT where a neighbor complained vociferously of bedbugs FJTs are often a hallucinatory experience, but usually they are clean enough.

Jean-Marc rescued us once more, taking us in and dropping us down the road in the campground at La Coquille. And in fact our luck began to change. We were hopelessly lost. The trouble with leaving the GR is that waymarks are not consistent: sometimes there are the blue-and-yellow stylized shells, and sometimes-increasingly as you go south-minuscule yellow arrows. These two systems do not always agree and in some places the Gironde in particular actually compete with each other. Sometimes there are no marks at all, because of vandalism or because a district is blocking them, and for a time the red-and-white GR blazes reappear.

This all makes for lost time and frustration and necessitates walking book in hand, which is hardly convenient. The little yellow arrows-sometimes reduced to minute triangles-seemed the least unreliable, so we left everything to follow them and, when they failed, our noses. Jean-Paul and his wife Monique were marvellous. A roof, a shower, and a meal of generous laughter, food and wine lasting well into the night-thanks, Monique and Jean-Paul. We were strangers and you took us in and stuffed us to the gills. We had been getting discouraged by the rain, the asphalt, and the scarce shelter.

And we had been missing the company of pilgrims-so far we had met three. On the other hand, we came to appreciate the solitude, silence and interiority of this Chemin. And hospitality became one of its great gifts, as couples opened their homes to complete strangers, overwhelming us with food and drink, beds with linens, even sometimes washing our clothes.

Vincent Delecroix

Front, another object of much past pilgrim devotion, but the huge church holding his remains was damaged in the Wars of Religion and underwent a ghastly restoration in the s. Pilgrims will want to see the simple St. Sadly, when we visited it was visible only through a grille. Friendlier to the spirit is the lovely Augustinian foundation not far down the trail at Chancelade, built in the 12th century and recently revived as a community and spiritual center by Augustinian canons!

Astier and Mussidan, we faced a dreaded 33 km to Ste. Until recently pilgrims lodged in the homeless shelter at Ste. Foy, but this seems no longer to be the case.

Un chemin vers l'esprit. La Science spirituelle anthroposophique

We were welcomed by a beaming, sarong-clad Charly we had apparently interrupted his siesta to a bungalow where we shared a large room with Belgians Willi and Claude. Charly and his wife served us cold drinks and dinner, regaling us with stories of other pilgrims and news items that had passed us by. They too are one of the bright lights of this Chemin, bless them. Of course we were too tired to see much of Ste.

Chemin De Promesses by Édouard Cortès

Foy, which was too bad. Foy of Conques, on the Chemin du Puy.

Really it would be worth a rest day. But since we had taken excessive rest days earlier we pressed on. Nineteen km. The hulk of the solid abbey church rose against the blackening sky.


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  5. Swallows nested inside the front door. It had been built in the sixteenth century, though the front including guest rooms had been renovated in the s. Doors were low, ceilings were high and I encountered a swallow in the upstairs hall. We wolfed down the beers proffered on arrival and, later, one of the farmyard hens. The storm never broke. Tired and disheveled, we stumbled into the Office de Tourisme and were sent to M.

    The Moreaus have been heroically caring for pilgrims for years. They washed our clothes, gave us dinner and breakfast, and even a guided tour of the cathedral and citadel, all in very good humour.


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