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Sort order. Dec 01, Dustin Underwood rated it liked it. The training plans that he lays out seem solid, and they are so simple and short that casuals with full time jobs could easily utilize his advice. I'll probably run through a cycle or two of one of the 3 training programs laid out in here, but: He never really gets into any science, research, or evidence for why he proposes this method for training. Also, the strength training, hang boarding, and mobility elements aren't laid out in detail.

You will need to go elsewhere to flesh those aspects out The training plans that he lays out seem solid, and they are so simple and short that casuals with full time jobs could easily utilize his advice. You will need to go elsewhere to flesh those aspects out. Finally, I got this in Amazon Unlimited. You can't really even describe this as a book; it's a pamphlet. So, the cost to purchase seems way high. All in all, it's a worthwhile read for anyone learning up on climbing training, but it's not going to become a classic tome for the sport.

Akladnig rated it liked it Sep 14, William Cohen rated it liked it Jun 06, Jerimiah Gentry marked it as to-read Apr 30, Tomek marked it as to-read Jun 02, Neal Royal marked it as to-read Nov 04, There are no discussion topics on this book yet. About Steve Bechtel. Steve Bechtel. Books by Steve Bechtel. Trivia About Climb Strong: Pow No trivia or quizzes yet. Welcome back.

"Boulder Campusing" for Power Endurance - Training For Climbing - by Eric Hörst

Just a moment while we sign you in to your Goodreads account. If we think about bouldering as just being strength and power, well most boulder problems take longer than 10 seconds, right? You start to bleed into that next energy system. We start to mesh all these energy systems together and it gets really, really ugly from a coaching and programming point of view. Neely Quinn: Yeah, and just to stop you for one second, you mentioned power lifting as this very one-dimensional sport.

When we look at specificity there are two facets. When we look at other sports we look at things that last for under 10 minutes, use lots of different movements and lots of different muscle groups, and we look for things that are acyclic. Crew is very, very cyclic. Road cycling or bicycling are very, very cyclic. Where the money is is in fighting. Neely Quinn: And those are the main ones that you would look at? The duration of the runs through those things, the fact that climbers just kick the crap out of that is real interesting. Being able to run up and down between endurance, get recovered really quick, and all that kind of stuff.

Aerobic activity is really easy to recover from but in between, when we get into the second gear, into that lactic or glycolic zone, the middle zone, that zone is really challenging. When we look at training endurance we want to be training really for route climbing.

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I want to make sure that I highlight that this is for route climbing primarily because for bouldering we really can just stay in that really high intensity zone. We need more of this total work capacity. Then we want to spend as much time training on both ends of that zone as possible. When I started learning about endurance and trying to get better at it, this Zatsiorsky stuff kept coming up.

Why not get better at not ever getting anaerobic? Why not improve our ability to deliver fuel with oxygen? I started studying that and I studied a couple things.


There was a great Canadian track coach named Charlie Francis and he wrote quite a bit about this with his sprinters. What he found with his meter sprinters is that after about 60 meters they started slowing down. He just started training his meter sprinters with meter sprints so they would just be doing this high, high power stuff. Then, when it came time to perform over meters, he would take a couple of weeks, ramp them up to the distance, and then his guys would go out and win all these races. Now when we look back historically, they gave Carl Lewis the gold and he had had doping suspensions.

Steve Bechtel: Sure, yeah, exactly. Cross country skiing, cycling, but anyway, going back to Francis, he was just a fascinating and really, really good coach. He did a lot for sprint training and many, many of his principles are still used today, years later. Same kind of thing. He just found that gassing his athletes was not helping them. They were not getting better fast enough.

The need to get super duper pumped in training, I believe, is really not as paramount as it used to be. Steve Bechtel: It totally is. Neely Quinn: [laughs] Right. Can you tell me more about Pavel Tsatsouline?

Building Endurance – Part 1

Steve Bechtel: Yeah, so Pavel Tsatsouline is Russian and he is largely credited with popularizing kettlebell training in the United States. What they need is to have these athletes that can fight day after day after day. I need a rest day. Steve Bechtel: Right? We can talk about that some other time. We can talk in these science terms and talk about these general principles but what people generally want is: give me the workout.

How do I make this work? When we look at endurance, we have to remember that long, slow, plodding along endurance is really about oxygen delivery. We really want our endurance training to be specific. When you start to train this longer, slower endurance, it does need to be total body stuff.

You can use a skier or a rowing machine or an Air bike, but the more like real climbing it is the better. The limit is the oxidizing ability of the muscles, the mitochondrial density in the muscles, and the health of those muscles. We need to train specifically in those terms. What I really like to do is keep it simple and keep it short. I need to look where I am and then I need to add on from where I am as a climber. We would start with taking your normal climbing day. ARCing, aerobic restoration capillary training, some people will just traverse along or climb open feet on the treadwall and we dumb down our skills there.

At the end of a climbing day, back off about eight letter grades or eight European grades from your current redpoint limit. You can also do this training on its own but with the same rules. We can keep goosing that up and we can keep pushing that forward. That is something that we can just add onto any normal climbing day, okay? The athletes can do that up to six days a week. Neely Quinn: Six days a week? Steve Bechtel: Up to, right?

Neely Quinn: So you could do this after a strength session, after a power session, after any session? Steve Bechtel: You could, yeah. We want the blood vessels fully dilated and we want these people to be able to keep moving at this really steady rate. Neely Quinn: You were saying I would do three laps on a 5. How many times would I do that? Consistency is the thing. One of the really important factors in any training is being consistent with doing the training over the long period. They had a group of athletes doing 20 sessions of training and then they stopped training. It was about three days a week so this was maybe six weeks of training.

They stopped training and after six months they were back to a total loss of strength. They went back to their baseline values. Makes sense. We train hard for six days a week then we stop training completely and have a total loss of strength. The consistency really mattered. This is something I talked to Alex Barrows about. You do it four times, switch out and let your friend do the same thing, then you do that four sets.

You get a total of 16 pitches that climbing day with big rests in between and the we can slowly push that forward.

Climb Strong

Guys that climb 13a have a really hard time climbing a 5. Steve Bechtel: Especially with keeping endurance. Now, the flip side or the second part of this is training above that intensity. We do need to strength train. We want to do hangboard stuff, we want to do high intensity power like limit bouldering, campusing, and so all of that stuff is on the top end of it.

We can also do a few different things that would be things like intervals of hard bouldering or on the campus board. What that might look like would be if you — let me see. Say you boulder V8 or something. Maybe this is around V4 or V5. You would do a boulder problem and then rest the remainder of the minute and then you would do another boulder problem and rest the remainder of that minute.

Then you could take a big break, probably about the same time, minutes, and then you would repeat it again. The easy way to make yourself feel tired would be to decrease your resting period but with this one we just want to keep increasing the total amount of work that gets done so your sessions get slightly longer.

Steve Bechtel: You could increase the difficulty. Decreasing rest is a classic way in high intensity interval training to tire out your athletes. Steve Bechtel: The tabatas are negative rest ratios. Neely Quinn: This is so confusing, Steve. I was listening to all their videos and the Anderson brothers would decrease their rest time in order to increase their endurance.

Why would they do that? I can spend a lot of time working strength and power. Then, we go into a glycolytic peak. That makes sense. Steve Bechtel: Good. So we can peak and we can still do this stuff, this high intensity stuff, but it has to be used sparingly.

Chronically, the Neely Quinn training program and especially as we get older as athletes, we need to continue to develop strength and power as best we can. I have to do this exactly right. Again, weeks.

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You can go longer than that, it just really depends on the athlete. The more highly developed the athlete, the longer the cycles need to be. We can do glycolytic peaking for a couple of weeks, three weeks before we need that. They have very detailed and very good methods. Neely Quinn: Okay, I just want to clarify something. Boulder problem on the minute should take you about 15 seconds to do the boulder problem and then you rest 45 seconds, right? Now let me give you a real world example of how this works. Steve Bechtel: Yeah, right?

At first, you can do it in four sections, right? And then you do it with one hang and all of a sudden you get to put it all together into one. Steve Bechtel: Right, because nobody likes to spend that many days in the Red. Neely Quinn: Okay, so we have this high-end training, the low-end training, is there anything else that you need to mention about that? Steve Bechtel: I think that the really important thing is that you need to look at it in the long term.

It really does work but it takes some time. Neely Quinn: Oh, I had a question about the high-end training. You said that the low-end training you can do after any session but when would you put these high-end training sessions in? Steve Bechtel: I would say those would be, for the most part, instead of a normal climbing day. Say you were a weekend warrior, you could do it on Tuesday and Thursday and then you could even put the low-end stuff at the end of those sessions.

You would do them maybe Tuesday night, Thursday night, and Saturday morning or something. Then the low-end training you could also do on the Tuesday and the Thursday and you could do it on the Wednesday in between. Neely Quinn: Yeah, it should feel pretty easy I guess. He would want to train the same, basically, as I might be training for the Red? What are the hold types? When those things meet we get redpoints.

This might be one of my last questions because in the beginning of this you basically said that some of us have been doing this all wrong for a long time. Steve Bechtel: Sure thing. What we should not be doing is chasing the pump. A couple of years ago Jonathan Siegrist lived here for the summer and I got to climb with him a bit.

Neely Quinn: He would do it a couple or three times or something? Steve Bechtel: Right, because at 5. What can I realistically do lots and lots of volume on and not have bad skill based on my fatigue? We used to do burnouts. You learn bad beta on these routes. Climbing deep into that state of fatigue is probably not the best advice. This is awesome. Neely Quinn: Last question that I forgot to ask you before: when you said that I would be doing those three laps on an 11a I think you said something about not doing it on a treadwall because of something. Are there parameters for that?

The three laps would be at the end of a climbing day so I would still get the good training out of you, that low intensity training. Okay, this is awesome. Thank you very much. Neely Quinn: No, I think it did, for me at least.